A bit shy in its expression, even as it warms up, this youthful wine’s nose peels back layers of lemon, lime and pomelo. The palate adds on a dimension of crushed almond, heather and limestone. Taut from the attack to the finish, there is a touch of penetrating bitterness that is distracting on the otherwise concentrated yet chiseled and lingering finish. It could use some time in bottle to settle down so drink 2023–2027.

— Published (1/27/2022)