This is a resolutely dark-hearted wine with black fruit flavors, licorice and sultry oak spices. Creamy and custardy on the palate—verging on gluttonous, in the most delightful way—there is nonetheless an impressive harmony here. The tannins are lightly grainy but very ripe and suave overall. The acidity works hard and struggles to keep pace. Throughout it all, the palate remains riotously youthful and energetic. Enjoy early on for full appreciation of this smorgasbord of excitement. Drink now–2025.

— Published (1/27/2022)