Crepuscular in appearance, this wine has a dark mulberry rim. Magnanimous and vibrantly berried on the nose, the wine’s “first look” is all cola, milk chocolate and sweet spice. Medium-plus in body, with oodles of extract, it has a pervasive presence on the palate. Poppingly ripe mulberries exude through the medium finish. Tangy acidity and lightly rigid tannins give it a perfectly balanced, if lightly steely, character. It drinks well now and should evolve nicely through 2020.

— Published (1/19/2017)