Very stinky on the nose, this dark-colored white initially smells of fertilizer and decaying yeast. With a few minutes of air, its smells develop into those of shriveling gooseberries, attic corners and dried apples. Past its prime, this has lost its fruit and is showing only notes of dried apples and stale spice. In fact, its structure currently is the bigger draw over its fruit character. Full bodied, with medium intensity and a moderately generous finish, drink this up now.

— Published (2/8/2017)