As dark as a black hole at the core, this wine has a bright, morello cherry rim. The nose segues between youthful and developed, with cherry jam and quince notes countered by incense and animal characteristics. It’s densely rich in black fruits on the palate, accompanied by hints of tar, bacon drippings and charred meat. There’s medium-plus lift and pleasantly granular tannins to keep the package balanced. The lingering finish suggests this wine has a bit more time to go hold through 2018.

— Published (6/11/2015)