This fairly deep, yellow-colored wine has more age on the nose than would be expected. It’s earthy and mushroomy, with leesy and buttery nuances of barrel fermentation and aging. While the nose is rather compelling, the palate is quite flat. The medium-plus body offers moderate acidity that can’t quite keep up with the rest of its attributes. The medium-length finish suggests the fruit is solid, so perhaps picking earlier is the key here. There’s clearly money to spend on new oak, but it’s best not to stay true to the fruit the vine gives. Drink now through 2016.

— Published (2/19/2015)