Exuberant on the nose, this wine smells of boysenberries, blueberries, fresh-snapped twigs and Trappist ale. Its deep color promises and delivers black forest berry and briar. On the palate, cola, incense, cinnamon, ginger and black plum skin enhance the wine’s complexity. The midpalate is dense and the body is full, but the high alcohol is impressively well integrated. The medium-plus finish seems to be carried through by the precisely balanced acidity and lightly tugging tannins. Drink now through 2016.

— Published (8/4/2014)