Brightly colored with a topaz and tiger’s eye appearance, this smells of decadence. Dried apricot, marmalade, honey, gingerbread, flan and incense all work into the mix. Succulent but not decadently sweet, there’s just enough medium-plus acidity to give this wine good—if not laser-like—precision. The marzipan notes of botrytis are very clean, suggesting very careful ion. The medium body, medium alcohol and moderate viscosity combine to give this wine weight without heaviness. This is a seriously classy wine that might well be an excellent value for its category. Drink now through 2018.

— Published (8/4/2014)