Profoundly black in color from the core to the tiny fuchsia rim, this wine’s nose is pure funk, with interesting scents of charcoal, peat, graphite and roasted pheasant. Underneath this tsunami-like wave of initial aromas are blackberries, black currants and blueberries. The palate offers some lift, with fresh rosemary, sweet Damson plum and underlying minerality. The ripe, plump fruit core is bordered by lightly sinewy tannins and chiseled acidity. The fairly good finish could suggest older vines or simply well-pruned and green-harvested vines. Best as a food wine, those who like their wines bold and brawny will be happy to sip this solo. Drink now through 2018.

— Published (8/4/2014)