Saturated with black at the core, this wine dances gracefully between its fruit and oak flavors on the nose. The palate, however, is quite demanding both in flavors and in structure. There’s creosote and tar followed by black currant and black plum. The oak is well seasoned, with baking spice nuances and perfume counter muskiness. The wine’s mouthwatering acidity makes it a nice pairing for meats at the table. The modest finish is cut off by the vigorously drying tannins even with time, they will never fully integrate. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (6/16/2014)