Inky at the core with a maroon rim, this wine smells of an eclectic yet appealing combination of peat, underbrush, stewing spices and hung meat. Broad-shouldered and a bit husky, its bustling acidity and resolving tannins are nonetheless well-integrated. The creamy midpalate feels oak-influenced, with a touch of oiliness and flavors of toasted wheat bread, spice cake and vanilla. Round and succulent, this will hold great appeal to a broad swathe of drinkers in many different formats. It’s drinking well now, so although this should hold well through 2017, there’s no need to wait.

— Published (6/16/2014)