Black at the core with a small, dark rose rim, this wine is reticent in aromas. Whiffs of licorice, cherry cough syrup and boysenberry work out of the glass with a few good swirls. The nicely concentrated palate is equally wound up. Muscular and slightly chunky tannins work with smartly integrated and lifting acidity to counter the serious midpalate concentration and full body. Moderate on the finish, with pronounced earthy notes, this is an old-school style. Drink now through 2018.

— Published (6/16/2014)