Black-inflected at the core, this wine’s rim shows a tiny hint of brick. The nose is showing some evolution in the form of tobacco leaf, smoke and mushrooms. Behind these top notes are macerated mulberries. The palate is already and somewhat surprisingly fully mature, with dusty earth and leather flavors. Though voluptuous and succulent on the palate, with well-managed high alcohol, the acidity is somewhat angular on the short finish. Drink now through 2015.

— Published (6/16/2014)