This wine’s densely colored black core shows mulberry inflections. The nose is rather feral and rustic. Black cherries, black plums, peat and game burst from the glass. Highly structuring acidity and lightly raspy tannins saturate the full-bodied but modestly alcoholic palate. The flavors echo the nose and add touches of licorice and lilac. Approaching its peak, this wine is best consumed with hearty food now through 2015.

— Published (3/27/2014)