Opaque in color with a deep, black core and mulberry rim, this wine is slightly stinky with sulphur straight out of the bottle. Otherwise, the aromatic elements are youthful and exuberant, showing black currant, blackberry, black-plum skin, licorice and rose petals. The palate is well balanced between the medium-body, grippy tannins, bouyant acidity and integrated alcohol. The modest finish shows some promise, but there is a feistiness in this bottling that lacks finesse—not that such a quality doesn’t have its merits.

— Published (9/3/2013)