Here’s a Pinot Grigio that will change the mind of those who don’t take the variety seriously. It is broad on the palate with pear, lemon verbena, a hint of salinity and button mushroom. It takes a moment to open up and reveal itself, but when it does, it commands attention. This wine is not as fruit forward as other interpretations, but relies on its texture and finish for definition. Sip and savor now or cellar for another three to five years.

— Published (11/27/2023)