This impenetrable core concedes a tiny maroon rim. Gigantically mineral on the nose, the aromas include pencil shavings, unlit charcoal and gunpowder. Black fruits of a nondescript nature sit timidly in the background. The palate changes dramatically. Baking spice, vanilla bean and sweet cream are presented up front. Overripe black cherries are present but play a secondary role. There is significant alcoholic heat here, but there is substance to back it up. Consume with hearty meat dishes, perhaps a Moroccan tagine. The lingering finish suggests it will drink now to 2018.

— Published (10/15/2012)