This wine boasts an impressively black, opaque core with fuchsia streaking. Deeply colored legs stream down the glass. The funky, earthy nose brims with humus, creosote, baked blueberries, licorice and fig. These flavors linger briefly on the palate. The cocoa powder and granulated coffee notes attributable to oak become more pronounced as the fruit fades. Full-bodied with warm alcohol, the glycerol wraps around the tongue. The tannins are smooth, but quite drying. This is a chunky and slightly clunky wine that is sincerely trying to show finesse. Drink now—2014.

— Published (10/15/2012)