Enticing on the nose in aromas of Meyer lemon, brioche and cultured butter, the palate quietly builds up layer upon layer of rich, even thick, flavors. This young, concentrated wine is brooding, showing a marked emphasis on lees and oak character rather than on fruit. As the wine opens, peaches and apricots eventually poke through the dominant flavors of warm pancakes, rising bread dough and almond paste. The broad, voluptuous finish receives only a wee lift from light acidity. This is a stylish wine. Drink now–2024.

— Published (1/27/2022)