Evergreen, eucalyptus and spice pop out of the glass on this wine’s zingy, aromatic, cool-climate nose. Blackberry and dried plum skin fill the lithe, elegant and mid-weight palate. As the wine opens, fireplace smoke and forest floor become more prominent. There is excellent energy here, wrapped up in surprisingly creamy tannins. The flavors are nicely pure and intense, but the palate is modestly concentrated. This, plus the fairly swift, smoky finish suggest it should be enjoyed in the mid-term. Drink now–2025.

— Published (1/27/2022)