Dynamic and full throttle, this is hedonistic in style. It is lush, smooth and custardy on the palate, with a thick slather of lightly jammy fruit—bramble, boysenberry, blueberry and baking spices abound. The tannins are remarkably polished. It’s the zippy acidity that does the heavy lifting, and it does so in an incredibly integrated way. Given the moderate finish, this may not make old bones, but it is intensely satisfying now and has the structure to hold several years. Drink now–2024.

— Published (1/29/2021)