This is an unusual fortified French wine. It is super-charged and even dominated by strong tones of smoky oak and vanilla. It slips quickly off the palate and feels slimy despite its welcomed, vigorous acidity. Nonetheless, there are elements to appreciate, from the faint, singed orange peel and ripe persimmon undertones to the exuberant caramel and toffee notes. The finish initially feels rounded but then quickly turns a bit crispy with a tannic edge and hangs in a slightly acrid way on the back palate. Sure to make a favorable impression on many with its upfront and unusual toastiness, this moderately concentrated wine with a modest finish is not particularly profound. Drink now–2022.

— Published (10/29/2020)