This opaque red has a pungent nose of creosote, blackberry and tart lingonberry. Air seems to allow the wine to develop a sweaty animal fur aroma. The palate delivers the same and as it sits in the glass, it develops a camphor note. While the flavors are polarizing, the palate is beautifully structured with sleek, well-managed tannins and graceful, lifted acidity. The lingering, mineral finish and sturdy midpalate concentration suggests there’s no rush. Drink now–2022.

— Published (10/14/2019)