Dense, roasted black fruits explode from the overtly lush nose of this wine. Endowed with youthful vigor, its explosive ripeness has broad appeal. However, its exuberant alcohol, soft acidity and even softer tannins could make this a polarizing bottling: a race-to-the-last-glass glugger for some and a one-glass wonder for those preferring a more restrained selection. Toward the finish, a tarry, fruit leather-like quality brings on some definition and palate-drying texture. The finish is medium in length, with those same rather monotone though innocuous black-fruit notes. Drink now–2020.

— Published (1/31/2018)