Beetle-shell black and just shy of opaque, this wine’s nose evolves enticingly. Its initial scents are blackberry and black plum, while thirty to ninety minutes of air coaxes out additional aromas of cola, licorice and menthol. In an impressive acrobatic move, the full-bodied palate feels impressively buoyant thanks to the lifting acidity. Slightly gravelly tannins nicely counter the lightly gummy texture. There’s a compelling umami meatiness and sanguine hint on the medium-plus finish that seems to demand dry-aged rib-eye, though with this lovely balance and excellent depth of character, it will pleasantly partner any cut of steak. Drink now–2022.

— Published (1/31/2018)