Very close to opaque, this wine’s jammy nose also shows a pleasantly lifting note of eucalyptus. Dense and concentrated on the brooding midpalate, it is packed with smashed, uberripe mulberry and plum, as well as musk and pipe tobacco. It’s a bit thick on the palate thanks to a plush, full body and velvety texture, but there’s just enough lift to make this a go-to for those liking chunkier, more rustic reds. An ambitious wine with good fruit concentration and a hint of toasty oak, drink this now–2020.

— Published (1/31/2018)