Crepuscular black with a faint purple rim, this wine looks like a palate-buster, but the finesse of the structure here is impressive. Aromas of sweet plums and prunes sprinkled with cinnamon carry to the palate joining more baking spices as well as a succulent bacon flavor. Pillowy, smooth ribbons of lithe tannins run through the muscular, solidly concentrated core, supported by a feisty touch of acidity. This wine’s charm now stems from its pervading, youthful fruit, but it will develop well for several years in bottle. Drink now–2021.

— Published (1/31/2018)