This wine is not a wallflower—in color, bouquet or foursquare structure. The nose smells of cola, tobacco, cardamom and blackberry. The palate is out of alignment, with a chunky texture trapped between linebacker-esque tannins and biting acidity. There’s a bit of ripeness to the finish, with some good fruit lurking underneath the firm tannins. Enjoy through 2017.

— Published (4/26/2017)