This wine has a high-wattage, black core, with a purple-inflected rim. Its nose is youthful, savory, mineral and smoky. It gives an impressively sexy overview. The palate, however, is surprisingly simple by contrast. Lovely mulberry notes arrive to complement the smoke accents, but nothing more dynamic happens there. Following on, the medium acidity borders on low for such a full-bodied, juicy wine. It might show best in a casual setting where it doesn’t require food and where its exuberantly expressive and vaguely hedonistic side can really strut its stuff. Drink now–2018.

— Published (1/19/2017)