This wine’s core looks like a black hole ringed by maroon. The nose is reclusive, with hints of minerals accompanying soft notes of black plum preserves. The palate isn’t much more forthcoming, adding only toasty, grilled whole-wheat bread and cinnamon-and-sugar sweetness. The dense midpalate is packed with clean black-fruit flavors that offer a surprisingly light finish. Lightly sticky tannins and buoyant acidity nicely clean up the considerable love handles on the plump palate. Drink now–2019.

— Published (6/30/2017)