Opaque from the core almost to the rim, this wine has a nose just as brazen. It’s multifaceted, with smells of prunes and lush black figs as well as pipe tobacco, caramel and soy. The palate turns to the savory side, with a distinctive dry-aged steak character. Though full-bodied, the somewhat sticky, rubbery tannins and racy acidity give the wine good lift. Given its rich flavors, it would benefit from at least a half hour of decanting. Drink now–2019.

— Published (6/30/2017)