This is textbook Barbera in many ways, but it is surprisingly bold and rustic for one hailing from Asti. First, it’s impressively ripe, showing fragrances of ripe black fig, blackberry briar and licorice. It’s also so youthful that it seems to taste of raw fruits. Second, the palate adds to the layers of complexity with African spices and burned hardwood. Third, a dynamically grippy palate composed of grainy tannins and bustling acidity hems in the full-bodied, juicy core. All of this plus the fact there is no evident new oak makes this a tremendous wine for the table, especially at establishments serving hearty fare. Drink now–2019.

— Published (1/19/2017)