Tar black, with a bright but tiny magenta rim, this wine smells of asphalt and cassis. The palate is grippy, masculine and meaty. Choppy tannins and high-pitched acidity definitely make this a wine for rustic and meaty dishes. Its youthful, structure-driven energy could use a bit of time to settle down. Happily, with its layers of flavors, full-on concentration and generous finish, there’s no rush for its current knees-and-elbows character to subside. Drink 2018–2022.

— Published (2/8/2017)