This red is beginning to show a considerable edge of tertiary character. Wet tobacco and fallen autumn leaves are taking over the bright red-fruit tones of rhubarb and lingonberries. Christmas spices add a charismatic edge from the bouquet through the medium-length finish. Integrated tannins and fresh acidity give this medium-bodied wine a well-proportioned structure. It’s drinking well now, but should hold on for a while if one has the discipline to stay away from it. Drink now–2020.

— Published (2/8/2017)