Dark as asphalt, this wine has noticeable auburn streaks from its core to its meniscus. Its nose is exceedingly reserved, showing only the vaguest hints of black plums, rare meat and peat fire. The palate follows the same course but adds licorice, sweet vanilla and bitter black plum to the mix. The tannins are gangly and chunky, but not overly drying. There’s a moderate finish, but it’s accompanied by a bit of heat. The wine is advancing, so enjoy it now through 2017.

— Published (5/19/2016)