The saturated core is deep black, while a thin magenta rim circles the glass. Forward, savory aromas dominate the nose—mostly fruit but some subtly sexy oak lurks in the background. The mouthfeel is voluptuous and mouthcoating. It is also hot, even spirit-like. Interestingly, this doesn’t detract from the tastiness of this bottling. Mulberries, black plum, sweaty saddle, truffle and soy weave a complex assortment of flavors. The full body seems to demote the acidity, however, it’s still quite spry. The tannins are abundant, yet they are powder fine. A lovely composition, this wine is showing it can age well. If only the finish was longer than medium-minus. It should have another three years to go.

— Published (10/15/2012)