Obstinately opaque, the color cedes to a deep crimson rim. Resolutely old world on the nose, the predominant characteristics are damp earth, rusting iron and quartz. Licorice, black currant and blueberry preserves fill in the fruit aspects. Fairly viscous on the palate, this wine has big but rounded tannins and elegantly supporting acidity. It’s not a subtle drink, and it’s best with food. However, it carries its weight well and, despite the short finish, the wine is full of flavor. Drink now to 2016.

— Published (10/15/2012)