Beetle-shell black at the core, with a thin mulberry rim, this wine has a boisterous and fruit-driven nose of blackberry coulis and blackcurrant jam, leading to hints of pine resin and cocoa. The palate is generous in notes of jam and preserves rather than fresh fruit, yet the moderate concentration can’t quite stand up to the lavish oak tones of coconut flakes and vanilla extract. Short on the finish, this is made to “wow” early and, indeed, is an easy-to-drink by-the-glass selection. Drink now through 2017.

— Published (2/29/2016)