Though this wine has a jet-black core, the freshness on the palate seems anything but brooding and heavy. The flavors encompass baked blueberry, boysenberry and licorice. It has nuance and verve alongside subtlety. Baked Damsom plum, hot tar, black currant and allspice create an energized palate. There’s enough mouth-coating texture to make this a drinkable by-the-glass wine despite the talc-like tannins. Drink now through 2018.

— Published (6/11/2015)